This is the electrical box wiring for my bicycle. This wiring is used for powering the high and low beam headlight, tail light, brakelight, horn, and eight turn signals: two front left, two front right, two rear left, and two rear right. I split the wiring into two layers to efficiently utilize the space. The bottom layer contains the ground (-) and hot (+) bus bars as well as eight relays. The top layer contains the fuse panels. I spent many days thinking about how to optimize the wiring. The box top closes just fine with easily over 1/2 inch room to spare. I use two batteries for redundancy. There is a one-eighth inch rubber pad beneath both batteries. I also added half inch rubber between batteries. This padding will alleviate any movement when in motion on bumpy roads.
Installed four illuminated pushbutton switches on handlebar of bicycle. Here are some videos and pictures of my work:
Bought a slim handlebar switch for turn signals, headlight, and horn. There were no directions or labeling for the wires. Using a voltmeter, I tested for continuity to determine which colored wires connect to the various switches. The logic is as follows:
The twelve volt wiring is now finished. I took this photo of the fuse panel before bolting the lid on. From the front handlebar, I have a working headlight, taillight, brakelight (when I pull one or both of the brake levers), left and right turn signals (front and rear), and voltmeter (with a USB charger) to monitor the twelve volt battery state.
I built a new brake circuit using two solid state relays and one of the relays from my previous build. The brake circuit works when I tested it with ebike Cycle Analyst. I used the +5VDC power from the Cycle Analyst's auxilary plug. I used the ground wire from the brakes on the handlebar.
I've been working on the 12 volt main wiring harness to deliver power to the lighting system in the front and back of my ebike. I don't have any pictures yet as my progress is not photo-worthy yet. I've used many Anderson Powerpole connectors in the front and back. This enables me to quickly disconnect the main wiring harness at the front or back (in case I need to remove the 12 volt battery box or perform some other repair). I tested the wiring by energizing the left and right rear turn signals and tail light. They all work.
Unfortunately, my brake circuit was not engaging the brake light (i.e. make the tail light get super bright when I pull one or both brake levers. After tracing the circuit, I figured out why:
Two of the 5V triggered relays in my brake circuit require 0.2W (40mA at 5V) to power the electromagnetic switch inside each relay. That means each brake line circuit has to provide at least 40mA of current. Unfortunately, my controller only supplies 10mA to the brake circuit. My relays were not receiving a sufficient amount of current to operate. I therefore ordered some solid-state relays that operate at a max power of 0.05W (10mA at 5V). The new solid-state relays will replace my electromechanical relays in my brake circuit. I will update once these new solid-state relays arrive. I will have to rewire my entire brake circuit.
Installed elbow conduit fittings in the front fuse box and the rear twelve volt battery box. This was a test fit. I will have to remove these elbow fittings and reinstall them once more with conduit sealing rings. The sealing rings arrive later this week. Once the sealing rings are installed, I can then install Anderson Powerpole connectors for each wire as it exists the conduit elbow.
Installed some 3/4 inch trade size conduit to protect the main twelve volt wiring harness from rear batteries to the front fuse panel. The conduit is angled down on either end to prevent water from entering. I'm waiting for some elbow conduit fittings for the front fuse box and the rear twelve volt battery box. Like the conduit, the angled conduit fittings will prevent water from entering the fuse box and twelve volt battery box.
I am purposefully keeping the wire exposed as it exits the fuse panel and twelve volt battery box. There will be quick disconnects using Anderson Powerpole connectors to attach the wiring harness at the front and rear of the ebike. The eighty-four volt batteries (powering the ebike motors) also use Anderson Powerpole quick disconnects. Using quick disconnects means I can easily remove every rear battery box from the bike. This significantly reduces the ebike's weight in the rare situation I need to carry the ebike.
A new Nine Continent FH212 motor (standard winding), Frankenrunner (motor controller), and Cycle Analyst (display) arrived yesterday evening. I've installed the second Cycle Analyst, second motor controller, and sleeving for the main 12V wiring harness from the rear of the ebike to the front. I'm labeling each wire after installing it in the wiring harness. As this is a work-in-progress update, there are still many wires to install in the wiring harness. I'll be terminating the end of each wire with color-coded Anderson Powerpole 30A connectors.
I installed an aluminum enclosure for the front fuse block. I installed the brake circuit and flasher relay in the rear twelve volt battery box. I added a 3/4 inch conduit hub to both the aluminum enclosure (mentioned previously) and the twelve volt battery box. I will be attaching an elbow conduit fitting to each hub. These elbow fittings will face downwards to elliminate the possibility of water entering either enclosure. The wiring will then exit the end of the elbow. Here are current work-in-progress photograph updates.
I installed one 84V battery box and the 12V battery box to the bicycle rack. I still need to devise a means of connecting the internal wiring of the 12V battery box to the bicycle's 12V power system. I also installed new brake cabling and cable housing on the front and rear disc brakes.
I installed two ten grade flange nuts M14x1.5mm on the rear axle of the ebike. These nuts are stronger than the stock rear axle nuts. Next, I attached aluminum brackets to the side and back of the 84V rear motor battery box using 1/4-20 bolts. These brackets securely hold the battery in place. I used some scrap rubber sheet under the bracket as a cushion for the battery. I applied black gaffer's tape to the top of each bracket to make the surface smooth. This will elliminate the possibly of abrasion between the power cords and the battery brackets. I installed 3/8 inch thick neoprene rubber on the the inside wall of the case (i.e. the side the battery is resting on). This rubber serves as a cushion and protection for the battery from round bolt heads on side wall.
Installed a 203mm rotor on rear wheel and a low-profile disc brake caliper. There is no nut on the visible side of the rear axle. I noticed one of the nuts was galled in the threads. This is most likely from me accidently cross-threading it. Regardless, I ordered two high-strength, class-10 metric nut replacements for rear wheel. These bolts are much tougher than the soft zinc bolt I mentioned before.
Completed the brake light circuit.
This is a work-in-progress update. I installed a second circuit breaker switch and a toggle switch in the twelve volt battery box. The twelve volt battery box contains two 12V 10Ah LiFePO4 batteries. Each battery is protected by a 20A DC circuit breaker. The toggle switch enables me to select which of the two batteries will be used to power the 12V lighting system. If my voltmeter indicates my primary battery is low (i.e. needs a recharge), I can switch to the second battery. The switch acts like a reserve battery but reminds me that I need to recharge my primary battery once I'm safely home.
Using 10 AWG copper machine tool wire, I cut wire to length then crimped the ends with connectors. Before connecting to batteries, I checked continuity on each wire and the logic of my toggle switch. There were no short circuits. The switch worked perfectly to switch between two batteries. The batteries are now connected. Here are photos of the twelve volt battery box with batteries wired. In the first photo, the box is completely open. I then photographed the partially closed box. Lastly, I took a photo with the twelve volt battery box completely shut. The box closes just fine. There are no internal obstructions.
This is a work-in-progress update. I installed the two 5V relays and one 12V relay into a blank circuit board. The underside of this board is wired such that if the voltage is zero on either 5V relay, the tail light will be super bright (i.e. the brake light will be engaged). The red and black wires on the board are solid copper 22 AWG. The one blue wire is 14 AWG. I will replace that 14 AWG wire with a 22 AWG wire soon. I ordered a spool of blue 22 AWG wire. I labeled each wire to indicate where it should be connected. These wires will be sent into a terminal block on the circuit board. The terminal blocks are on order as well. I will post photos of the completed brake circuit once I receive the remaining parts.
Installed two 5VDC triggered relays and one 12VDC triggered relay into a printed circuit board. Now wiring up the connections. I'm using temporary alligator clips to attach everything as I verify I have the correct logic. I'm triggering a 5VDC relay which then feeds 12VDC to a 12VDC relay. The 12VDC relay then switches the power sourcex to the tail light. Depending on the power output, the tail light will be normal or super bright (i.e. when brakes engaged). The logic for engaging the brakes is as follows:
Here is a demonstration of the brake light being engaged when I remove the +5VDC from the relay. This demonstrates the correct logic. Notice when I enable the +5DC again, the tail light is not so bright. That is exactly what I want to happen.
Installed a voltmeter USB charger on upper handlebar. This voltmeter monitors the 12V battery which powers front light, rear light, brake light, and front and rear turn signals. Ideally, I'd like to avoid having my 12V lighting system fail while riding my ebike due to low battery voltage. I will be installing a reserve 12V battery that I can manually switch to in order to get home safely at night. Once I'm home I can then recharge the 12V batteries. The built-in USB charger is a bonus feature that will enable me to recharge my iPhone from the 12V battery system while traveling to or from work.
I created a brake light diagram to illustrate how my rear tail light will serve as both a tail light or brake light. The rear tail light has two power wires and one ground. Depending on which wire is energized, the tail light will be very bright (to indicate brakes are applied) or much less bright (normal non-braking condition). The relays I chose are all the classic electromagnetic type. They are non-latching relays which means they do not "remember" their last state. The relays will always revert to their "NC" (normally closed) state when the relay is not energized. I was originally going to use solid state relays because they feature no moving parts; however, the electromagnetic type frequently handle higher current loads than their solid state equivalents. At least, that's what I found in the marketplace. The relays I chose have connections for "NO" (normally open) and "NC" (normally closed). This gives me maximum flexibility when I wire them to my tail light / brake light. I will connect the relay's normally closed (NC pins) to my tail light. That means when I don't pull a brake lever, my tail light will remain on (but not super bright). I will connect the relay's normally open (NO pins) to the tail light's power lead to engage the bright brake light. That way, the light will become bright when I pull the brakes.
I created a splitter cable with male and female JST connectors at either end. This cable connects the brake lever switches to the Cycle Analyst. I noticed the Cycle Analyst has a blue wire, a black wire (negative ground), and red wire (+4.9 volts). My brake levers are connected in parallel. Each has a built-in electric switch. Therefore, if I press either brake lever, the Cycle Analyst knows to immediately cut power to the motors and apply regenerative braking. I noticed my brake lever only has two output wires: a red power wire and black ground wire. I do not use or need the blue wire on the Cycle Analyst.
I connected my splitter cable between the brakes and the Cycle Analyst, connected my voltmeter on the red and black leads of my splitter cable, then connected one 84V battery to power the Cycle Analyst. My voltmeter read +4.9V when either brake lever was pulled (i.e. engaged). When I pulled either brake lever, the voltmeter read 0v. When I released either brake lever again, the voltmeter returned to +4.9V
I am now building a circuit to make my tail light bright when either brake levers is pulled. When either brake levers is released, the tail light will return to normal brightness.
I drilled holes to mount two 20A DC circuit breakers in the Twelve volt battery box. The twelve volt battery box will be powering all my lights, turn signals, and horn. The twelve volt battery box will hold two Dakota Lithium LiFePO4 batteries inside. Each will be protected by a twenty amp DC circuit breaker. As you can see in the photo, I still need to install the second circuit breaker. I need to cut out the rectangular hole to fit the second breaker in.
Addendum: At 11:30pm, I installed the rear turn signals in the twelve volt battery box.
I finished the wiring for rear motor today. I took the ebike for a test ride around the neighborhood. The rear motor is peppy. I reached approximately 20 mph on level ground. Everything worked as predicted.
The right front turn signal is blinking.
I've been working on ebike version 2. Slowly, I've been wiring up the following:
I've installed the front turn signals but they are not wired in yet.
On the rear of the bike, I've installed the tail light / brake light. Here's a photo with tail light on and a photo with brake light on. I will be installing rear turn signals next.
Continuing the odometer challenge, here are my current statistics:
On Jan 1, 2021, my car odometer read: 114,246 miles.
On Jan 1, 2022, my car odometer read: 115,114 miles.
Total mileage for 2021: 868 miles.
Computed power generation statistics from the off-grid photovoltaic power system. This is the total power generated on a daily basis from June 29, 2020 to August 8, 2021 inclusive. The solar power system has been in operation for over a year now with no problems. If you look carefully at the graph you may notice some gaps where the power generation was low or non-existent. This was due to standard maintenance procedures which required I completely shutdown the system. For example, I updated the firmware software for Outback Power's Mate3 system on one occasion. On other occasions, I added additional batteries to the battery bank to increase capacity. Lastly, I also upgraded the networking capability and reliability for communicating with the system. Overall, I'm very pleased with the performance and reliability.
Computed power generation statistics from the off-grid photovoltaic power system. This is the total power generated on a daily basis from June 29, 2020 to Feb 27, 2021 inclusive.
Currently building large planter box from recycled lumber.
This box will be 3.42 feet (length) by 3.42 feet (width) by 4 feet (height) planter box. I've already built three 2-cubic foot planter boxes. I posted photos on the planter box project page. I have also created a blueprint in case anyone reading this wishes to build one as well. They are easy to make. I will post pictures of the large planter box once it is finished.
The future of engagement is here: buttons with predefined canned responses. Hail dystopia!
Cynically speaking, I find it amusing that Linked In has standardized buttons with predefined responses whenever a person posts material on that platform. I'm sure Linked In's motivation was to promote a response but the results strike me as simplistic, linear, canned, and predictable. On one particular post, the response buttons read "What about...", "Thanks for sharing...", "Love this...", "I think...", "This is a great...", "Can I add...", and "Thank you for...". Predictably, the responses to this particular posting included 50+ comments reading "Thanks for posting", "Love this", etc. No original thought or content was put forth. It seems Linked in has become a portal to dystopia where mindless, robotic Linked In members click on simplistic drivel in the form of a response button. There is little (if any) engagement. I guess this is one step above pressing the "Like" button. Please note: these blog posts do not have like buttons!
I wanted to know how many miles I'd be driving in the year 2020. I called it the odometer challenge. My original intention was to challenge myself to limit my car usage. This was before I even knew about COVID-19 or the future pandemic.
On Jan 1, 2020, my car odometer read: 112,703 miles.
Total mileage for 2020: 1,543 miles.